RIDing tips

404-636-4444
2098 N. Decatur Rd.
(at Clairmont)
Decatur, GA 30033

 

About Clipless Pedals

Besides the derailleur and pneumatic tires, clipless pedals may be one of the most significant bicycle innovations in the history of cycling. Clipless pedals make the rider to be more efficient by providing a better foot-to-pedal connection. What is happening is that a clipless pedal allows the rider to pull up, as well as push down on the pedals when making a complete rotation of the cranks. Clipless pedals are also safer than traditional toe clips and straps because of almost instant foot entry and release. Clipless pedals are suitable for pavement and mountain biking and everything from recreational riding to commuting and racing. You'll also find many people who take spin classes at the gym like clipless pedals as well. Interestingly enough, clipless pedal designs are found back as far as 1894! Cino Cinelli introduced a clipless design in 1973, but clipless pedals became popular when Bernard Hinault won the Tour de France on prototype Look clipless pedals in 1985.

New cyclists may find both the expense and the skills needed for clipless pedals a bit daunting. There is nothing wrong with riding a bike without and even if you don't go clipless, a proper stiff soled cycling shoe will improve your comfort and efficiency. Still, once you are comfortable operating your new bike, the benefits of clipless pedals are well worth the cost and it's not hard to learn how to clip in and out. If you ride regularly, at least 10 miles or more, and expect to continue riding, you will notice the benefits in power and efficiency right away.

Clipless Pedals - A Misnomer?
No matter how many times we explain this at Bicycle South, people still get confused. How can the pedals be clipless if the rider "clips in?" What the name "clipless" refers to is that clipless pedal systems don't employ a toe clip and strap. That's all! So ignore the misnomer and think of clipless pedals as system of special pedals and cleats which are specific to both the pedal and the shoe. The cleat is attached to the sole of a cycling shoe and "clips in" to the mechanism on the pedal.

"Plain" pedal on the left, clipless pedal at the bottom, and pedal with toe clip & strap on the right.

OK, Tell Me More - Why Are Clipless Pedals Better?
If you are just cycling short distances to the store or around the neighborhood with kids, flat pedals work fine. If you are more serious, say cycling for fitness, you will be turning the cranks faster (higher cadence) and riding longer distances, and there's a risk of your feet slipping off the pedals, which can either be an annoyance or worse, can cause a crash. Even if you never slip off the pedals, flat pedals don't put your feet in the best, most powerful pedaling position with the balls of your feet over the centers of the pedals, which can be inefficient. Toe clips and straps attach to certain types of flat pedals and form cages to hold your feet in the correct place on the pedals. They do keep your feet from slipping off, and you do have the ability to increase efficiency through more of the pedal revolution. Toe clips are far less expensive than clipless pedals and don't require special shoes. Toe clips are more efficient when paired with cycling shoes because a stiffer soled shoe provides better transfer of energy and support for the foot. There are negatives to toe clips though. With the strap properly tightened for maximum efficiency, toe clips can cut off the circulation to your feet, causing numbness. It's also actually harder to get out of properly tightened toe clips and straps because of the two-step process needed to do so. Lets say you are riding along and when your foot is on the upstroke, you pause for a second to reach down and pull the toe strap tight. Now you have to stop in a hurry. Now you have to reach down to loosen the strap before you can pull your foot out, so your timing has to be just right, which can be tough to perfect. It's actually much easier to make the little heel twist that disconnects a cleated shoe from the clipless pedal and get your foot down. A real irritant in riding off road with toe clips is when you're riding on the pedal bottoms, instead of using the toe clips, the toe clip and straps hang down and can snag on roots or sticks. Since most people don't tighten the toe strap all the way, you really only benefit from toe clips through about 2/3rds of the pedal rotation. Toe clips are also available in strapless models and basically only serve to keep your foot on the pedal.

OK, I'm Convinced - Which System Is the Best?
You will find that there are two general types of clipless systems, with some variation between. The most accessible to new riders are easily walkable clipless systems, which originated with mountain biking. Many good recreational road bikes and intermediate mountain bikes will come with this type of pedal and cleat as stock equipment and all you have to do is pick the shoe you like best. Bicycle South will install the cleats included with your new bike on your new shoes and you are set to go. Another name for walkable cleats is "recessed" because the cleat is recessed into the shoe sole. What both walkable and recessed mean is that the cleats don't contact the ground when you are off the bike. Recessed clipless systems makes good sense for mountain bikers, casual cyclists, cycle tourists and those that like rides where you might run into a store or be waiting in line for a porta-potty!

Many of the recessed systems work with a double-sided pedal, which means you can click into the pedal on either side. This is good because you don't have to look down to get clipped in. Some recessed systems are single sided with a street shoe option on the other side. This kind of pedal works well for people who use their bike for commuting or errands. The other type of clipless pedal system you will find is designed specifically for the road and since it is not easily walkable, would be a dangerous choice for mountain biking! This type of system has some features, which are more practical for road cycling, and since this type of system tends to be found more in performance cycling, the lightest, coolest, stiffest (hence non walkable!) most aerodynamic shoes will be available for it. As most road systems usually are single-sided so you must find the correct side of the pedal to click in when you start out. Most road pedals are weighted to hang a certain way, when the cleat is not engaged with the pedal, to make this relatively easy. The main differences in road clipless systems are that the cleats protrude from the soles of the shoes, which serves (in most cases) to do two things. First, if the cleat is larger, you have the potential by the construction of the system for a greater degree of float (more on float later). Secondly, if the cleat is larger, pressure from the cleat is distributed across a greater area of the shoe, therefore your foot. This pressure distribution helps the rider to avoid pressure related hot spots, which can be painful on long rides. Now, the hot spot issue does not affect every rider and there are plenty of people who are perfectly happy with recessed systems, who are riding long distances. One thing to remember about non recessed systems is the cleat does protrude from the shoe. This makes it difficult to walk in the shoes and if dirt gets into the cleat it may prevent easy cleat engagement and disengagement - though there are cleat covers available to protect the cleat and improve traction.

Terminology - What is Float And What's So Great About Tension Adjustment?
First of all, float is a good thing for your knees. Understand that even if your bike is perfectly set up, you have some lateral movement of your foot when you pedal, just because of the way your body is constructed. This provision for lateral movement in a pedal system is called float. Some people's bodies have more lateral movement of the foot, than others, which is why they may choose a certain pedal position, or seek a specialist to set up their shoes and pedals. Pedal systems without provisions for lateral movement between the cleat and the pedal can be tough on your body, even though there are those who swear by the perceived efficiency of those systems. Most clipless systems allow for float, and some have more capacity than others! However, even though most clipless pedals offer float, it's still important to align the cleats carefully. They must be positioned to hold the balls of your feet over the pedals and to match your natural foot inclination. We can help by recommending the best pedal and installing the cleat correctly. Please let us know what kinds of concerns you have.

Another adjustment many clipless pedals offer is fine-tuning the ease of entry and exit, which is called tension adjustment. Competitive riders often set their pedals very firm because they don't want their feet popping out in during all out climbing and sprinting. Most mountain bikers like a loose setting so that they can clip out easily, as do lots of recreational road riders. A loose setting is also helpful if you're just starting out with clipless pedals. Please let us know what your experience level is, when buying clipless pedals. We will be sure to set up your pedals as appropriate. We can also show you how to adjust the tension adjustment yourself. As your cleats wear and the pedals break in, you may want to increase the adjustment.

Clipping In
It's really not that hard. If you've done any skiing, clipless pedals are similar to a ski binding mechanism, to get into. If you've never skied, or have forgotten how the binding mechanism works in skis, here is an idea of what usually going on when you clip into clipless pedals. The nose of the cleat fits under a shelf like area on the pedal. The back part of the cleat (the part closest to your heel) actually pushes a spring actuated plate open. That's the "click" you hear when clipping in. When the cleat is in position in the pedal, the spring actuated plate closes and secures the cleat into the pedal. Some pedals, such as Speedplay road pedals, have a different mechanism, but you still click in. It is a pretty subtle motion though, and most people aren't conscious of exactly what is going on. Don't over intellectualize the process, and we can give you some practice tips to make you a competent user of clipless pedals. OK, now to get out, you need to rotate your heels away from the bike as if you're getting ready to put your feet down, and the pedals release. Now this is another place where float and spring tension come into play. Pedals with a lot of float require a much greater degree of heel swing before you disconnect the mechanism. Pedals with a great deal of spring tension provide much resistance against your knees. If you've got knee problems, lots of spring tension can actually be bad for some knee problems. However, pedals with very little spring tension can actually be a disadvantage for certain bicycle activities like mountain biking because the rider literally has no feedback from the pedal that they are clipped in. A mountain biker who was not clipped in and thought they were, might have their foot slip during a particularly technical move while and cause a crash. Just like everything else in cycling, there are plusses and minuses to all the products on the market, and a reliable bike shop will discuss your needs with you and come up with a solution that makes the most sense. It's what Bicycle South is good at!

Here are some collected thoughts on clipless pedals:

The Best For You May Not Be The Most Expensive
Good clipless pedals don't have to be the most costly ones in the store. Remember, someone who is professional athlete has different needs than you do. Pedals that are more costly usually are grams lighter, more durable under hard use and may have some greater adjustability then less costly models. The highest end pedal in the store is not going to make you climb hills better. Climbing hills a lot will make you climb better!

Talk To Other Cyclists
Look at what other riders use. If you ride with friends, ask them what they use and why. There is nothing more frustrating then selecting expensive bicycle components and then discovering that they don't work for you after you use them and can't return them. Cyclists are incredibly opinionated, so gather your information with a grain of salt. Everyone at Bicycle South rides and many of us have ridden for years. As long as you can provide us information as to your needs, we can make helpful suggestions too!

Know Your Riding Style
It isn't necessary to buy those pedals and shoes with the new bike. Figure out how you are going to use the bike first and if you are new to modern bikes, or biking in general, develop a comfort level handling the bike. Think on your usage. Will you walk a lot? Do you ride in sandals and go to the bank, the library, ride with the kids and ride for fitness? Are you going to spin class at the gym and want shoes and cleats that go between your bike and a spin bike?

Systems Work Together
That's why they are called systems, right? The best way to make sure that all the parts work correctly is to buy your pedals and shoes together. Often, certain pedal systems only work with certain types of shoes. Often certain shoes only work with certain pedal systems. If you buy everything together, we make sure all of it is compatible and it functions correctly. Yes, we will install the pedals on your bike, the cleats on your shoes and give you some tips as to how to get used to them.

Fit is CRITICAL
Cycling shoes fit differently than running or hiking shoes. Cycling shoes are first and foremost an interface between your foot and the pedal. They aren't designed to support your foot in walking activities. One thing that the person writing this learned when she moved to the South, is that heat and humidity make her feet swell. Shoes that fit fine in the Northeast became painfully tight and made her feet go numb on a 75 mile ride in the middle of nowhere. Basically, cycling shoes should not press anywhere on your feet and you should have lots of toe wiggle room. Try the shoes on and walk around the store. Does the top of the shoe rub against your ankle (ankle circumference is different even in people with the same size feet), does your heel pop out of the shoe, do you feel any pressure from the shoe on one foot or another? If you note any of these things, let your sales person know - we know the products we sell and some shoes fit differently than others. The shoes you think are the most attractive may not be the best fit and we cannot take returns on shoes once the cleats have been mounted! Also, unless you know the style, size and manufacturer, don't buy your shoes mail order. Interestingly enough, shoe manufacturers use different lasts (the base the shoe is built on) for different models, which can fit differently, and if you've bought any article of clothing in your life you know that size can be inconsistent between manufacturers. We see lots of people who come into Bicycle South, who bought mail order shoes and can't get their cleats to fit right, or their feet hurt.

Cleats Wear Out
So do pedals, but the cleats wear first, which is what they are designed to do. For the author, who clips out for stop signs and traffic lights with her right foot, while leaving the left foot clipped in, her right cleat wears out first and gets replaced the most! How you do you know your cleats are worn out? Mostly this is because you find yourself tightening pedal tension and still popping out unexpectedly. Keeping a spare set of cleats around isn't a bad idea - think of that spare tube you keep around. You don't need to carry those spare cleats on the bike though!

Extra Pedals?
First of all, if you've got more than one bike, it's a pain to swap pedals. Since you are constantly threading the pedal in and out of the crank (use a pedal wrench please! We will be happy to show you why!) the potential to do it incorrectly and damage the softer aluminum crank with the harder steel pedal axle is greater. Secondly, once you have clipless systems on one bike, you'll see the benefit for the others, unless your other bike is a flip-flop based single speed beach cruiser - and in that case, might we interest you in a nifty basket?

Practice Before You Ride
Clipping in and out is a skill like shifting, balancing and riding in traffic. In order for it to be an automatic response like breathing, you want to get comfortable with the motion. Have the salesperson or mechanic who set you up show you the mechanism and explain how the cleat and pedal go together. Go home with your new shoes and pedals. Look at the pedal and the cleat on the bottom of your shoe. See how they go together? Put one new cycling shoe complete with cleat on and position yourself so you are leaning up against a wall. We find that if the shoe and cleat are on your right foot, you'd want the wall to your left and vice versa. With your left foot on the ground, put the pedal at the bottom of the pedal stroke and make sure it is turned correctly if it is single sided. Now this part may take some practice, but get the cleat lined up so you can get clipped in. Step straight down and you should feel/hear the connection between pedal and cleat. Now turn your foot to the right, away from the bike and clip out. Do this at least 20 or 30 times on each side. Repeating this motion will teach your body the movement as well as start to break in the cleat, just a little.

Riding
Certain people take to clipless pedals easier than others. Some people just ride away on their new pedals and not think about clipless pedals again, others of us struggle with the mechanism and a fear of falling for some time. However, regular people master clipless pedals all the time. Go on a local ride, something like a Southern Bicycle League beginner ride and you will see people of all shapes, sizes, genders and age ranges using clipless pedals without thinking about it. Clipless makes sense, which is why people buy them!

If you are nervous at first, just ride with one shoe clipped in or use your new shoes (only if you have a walkable recessed cleat system) with a flat pedal on one side of the bike and a clipless pedal on the other. Note which foot is the one you put down to stop. Make that your non clipped in foot. Ride around! Once you are double footed remember that you need to clip out before you stop. Remind yourself of this when approaching stop signs, crosswalks with pedestrians, parking lots or when riding around with kids. Keep your put down foot clipped out and positioned in such away that pedaling forces don't cause you to clip in accidentally. Most people who fall over with clipless pedals have what we fondly refer to at Bicycle South as a "low speed tip over." We hate to say it, if you are going to crash on a bike, it's not likely that your clipless pedals will cause it and usually if a rider comes off a bike with any force, their feet twist and they end up clipping out. It's that stop sign you stopped for and stopped, forgetting entirely you needed to clip out as you slowed down! If you are really nervous try using a trainer at first. You don't have to steer, it's not likely you will fall over and you can get comfortable with the motion of clipping out. Problems can occur when cleats get turned, or misaligned, wear out and screws get lost. Pedals sometimes fail. If you have a question, please stop by!



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